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Silver ring with Swarovski marcasite and various gemstones, by Pochai Jewelry

Marcasite Jewelry

Swarovski challenges jewelry designers to work with marcasite

Black gems have been adding an interesting edge to jewellery design for the past couple of years. From black diamonds to onyx and ebony, there is one thing we know for sure - they are sure to match 90% of every woman's wardrobe. The latest black beauty to join the dark gemstone trend is marcasite, an obvious choice for the times since it is one of the world's most inexpensive gems. Marcasite is a black diamond look-a-like, with all the same aesthetic qualities - it can lend a dark edge or create an understated look, and it's hard enough to take a full-facet cut which, with any black gem, tends to create a strong geometric, architectural look. Marcasite, for this reason, played a strong role in the art deco movement of the 1920s and '30s.

Marcasite, which is a type of pyrite, also has a few unique properties of its own. Most notable is its steely metallic lustre, which makes it seem more grey than black at times, and gives it tremendous scintillation (flashes of light). "Technically, marcasite is a mineral, but it seems more metal than mineral - the polish is so fabulous," says Anne Neumann, president of gem lab Weinstein & Associates, Toronto. "It has a hard, bright lustre that works well in sterling silver because of the contrast between dark and light."

Swarovski, manufacturer and cutter of both natural and synthetic gemstones, has resurrected the use of marcasite in fine jewellery, touting it as an inexpensive alternative to precious gems such as sapphire, amethyst and citrine, but also as a gem that mixes well with those colors. Swarovski invited designers from around the world to demonstrate the artistry of marcasite in new designs using the gem in high jewellery. The resulting collection features marcasite that is punctuated with diamonds and other gemstones, set in both sterling silver and gold.