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Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar with moonphase display in white gold, $74,800

How to buy a watch

Which watch and what should it cost?

A watch makes a great gift. It can be anything from a significant (expensive) timepiece that will become an heirloom to a fun sports watch that will simply make your favorite weekend warrior look like a pro. Sadly, shopping for a watch can be a little bit like shopping for a car - a complicated process of sorting out myriad aesthetic, technological and price options that can leave you exasperated. For some, the solution is simply to take the man with you to the store and ask him to pick something out. But if you want to surprise him, you'll have to venture forth on your own.

Before you go shopping, take into account his personal style. If you peek into his closet and you're faced with a row of tailored suits, then stay away from the fashion brands with grommet-studded wide leather straps and anything with a helium valve. He needs a classic watch with an uncluttered dial and basic functions. If he's sporty, a chronograph is a must. If he's a runner, get him a digital timer, preferably one with a heart rate monitor. If he's a diver he'll need something with at least 100-metre water resistance and a unidirectional bezel.

It's also helpful to determine your budget before you hit the stores. Here is a guide to what you can expect in each of three price ranges.

$500-$1,500: While it is possible to find a watch with a mechanical movement under $1,000, it is unlikely you'll find one that is reliable for under $600. But that should not suggest any sort of technical compromise. Multi-function quartz movements are loaded with a dizzying selection of cool features including world timers, barometers, altimeters, compasses, countdown timers and even solar-powered batteries. The case could be stainless steel (no less than 316L) or titanium, which is 50% lighter than steel and 30% stronger, but generally more expensive. Gold-plating, which tends to wear off, is recommend only for trim.

$1,000-$5,000: Mechanical movements are available in this range, often with at least one complication (anything beyond hours, minutes and seconds), such as power reserve, day/date indicator or chronograph (basically a stop watch). In this category, you should find some outstanding quality feature, such as luminescent-coated hands and markers, a guilloché finish, adjustable deployant buckle or a special coating, such as DLC (diamond-like carbon) In order to be officially called a sports watch it should have 100-metre water resistance.

$5,000-plus: In this price range you're looking at timepieces made by the elite Swiss brands. You can get a great watch for $5,000 from brands that routinely make horological masterpieces for collectors that can cost in the hundreds of thousands. You are now looking at cases in 18k gold and platinum, as well as high complications including perpetual calendars, minute repeaters and tourbillons. Unique features in this range might include 1/10^th second chronographs, magnetic and shock resistant cases, micro-adjustable deployant buckles. COSC accuracy rating is also common in this category, and look for in-house movements, which are purpose-built rather than modified base movements fitted with extra modules according to function. You should also be seeing engraved finishes and decorated movements in this category. This is the category of heirloom quality timepieces, so choose carefully.