FEATURE STORY

Paula Crevoshay photo

Butterfly set with Mexican fire opal and other gemstones by Paula Crevoshay

Animal jewelry

Why jewellers love critters and beasts

By Carol Besler

Ever since Cartier unleashed its first Panthère brooch in 1914, beasts have been prowling the workshops of the world's master jewellers. Over the past year, sightings from the animal kingdom have exploded into a stampede of pigs, parrots, flamingos, owls, spiders, giraffes, piranhas, puppies and even bats.

Designers are drawn to animal life because of the flowing lines and potential as three-dimensional sculpture. Ruby, emerald and sapphire eyes, enameled leopard spots and zebra stripes, diamond feathers, pavé dragonflies, black diamond crayfish, burnished bumble bees, opal turtles, peridot frogs and chalcedony bluebirds bring jewellery to life so much better than a static diamond solitaire ring.

The symbolic meaning attached to various creatures adds even more dimension. The turtle, for example, is a favorite of Australian jewellery designer Katherine Jetter, who says, "The turtle is courageous because it makes progress when it sticks its neck out, and moves forward with patient, steady flow in order to achieve its goals." According to Egyptian mythology, the turtle represents protection, wisdom and strength, and has become a symbol for the preservation of the environment.

The butterfly is another popular motif which, like the dragonfly, has come to embody the art nouveau design ethic. Renowned Santa Fe designer Paula Crevoshay uses it frequently in her colorful designs, because the butterfly symbolizes lightness and transformation.

Other symbols:

Frog: Sensitivity, hidden beauty and power

Dragonfly: Dreams, illusions, the power of light

Spider: Mystery, power and growth

Bat/scorpion: Death and rebirth, guardian of the night

Owl: wisdom

Eagle: a sacred messenger

Bluebird: happiness

Scarab: Creation and the sun's cycle throughout the sky

Seahorse: Ancient Europeans believed it carried the souls of deceased sailors to the underworld - giving them safe passage and protection. Sailors view it as a good luck charm

Zebra: The beauty of individuality.

Panther: Femininity, swiftness, cunning, strength and beauty