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Pink gold triple coil Serpenti bracelet with links of lavendar jade and diamonds

Bulgari Jewellery

Masters of the serpent in gold and gems

The ancient Greeks, whose great civilization predates the book of Genesis and Eve's run-in with the evil serpent, believed snakes to possess healing qualities. Therefore, snakes were free to roam the healing temples where sick and injured citizens slept.

         The Egyptians considered the snake a symbol of ressurection. Romans linked it with fertility. More importantly, both cultures recognized the motif's potential for beautiful, coiling, shimmering, tactile, highly symbolic pieces of jewellery. Not surprisingly, Bulgari, whose roots as a jewellery company are firmly planted in Roman soil, evoked the sinister serpent in its collections as early as 1949, using it as the bracelet design for a watch. The collection also launched the "tubogas" trend in jewellery, a flexible expansion bracelet constructed of intricately joined gold links that wrapped sensually around the wrist. It was followed in 1950 by a serpent bracelet with overlapping links that resembled snake coils. These were elaborately constructed, with hundreds of individual links that were soldered, or in some cases painstakingly screwed together. Over the next four decades, Bulgari perfected the snake bracelet with gold, enamel, turquoise, diamonds and a variety of colored gems. Elizabeth Taylor wore a Bulgari snake bracelet in the 1962 film Cleopatra. Fashion legend Diana Vreeland commissioned one in pink and white enamel with sapphire eyes.

         Bulgari's new Serpenti collection features a sophisticated bracelet/watch in an astounding array of variations, including pieces set with diamonds, mother of pearl, lavender jade, rare pink diamonds, coral and onyx. Three limited-edition pieces will be auctioned by Christie's on December 8 in New York to benefit STC's Rewrite the Future campaign, a children's charity. Which perhaps proves that the serpent does have healing properties after all.