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Pink sapphire briolette earrings by Autore. www.pearlautore.com.au

Vicenza 2010

Trends include ice diamonds, enamel and luxe for less

Recession or not, the Italian jewellers who exhibit at the Vicenza fairs, near Venice, remain determined to set trends with the same flair that keeps them on top of the world of jewellery design. Pared-down designs and competitive price points might sound like a recipe for dullness, but the Italians have done just the opposite, stepping up their dedication to innovation and fresh ideas.

Here are the top looks for 2010 launched at Charm, the second of the trio of jewellery trade shows held annually at the Vicenza fair:

Briolettes, top cuts, checkerboards. Briolettes, checkerboard cuts and fresh-looking random shapes and irregular facets rule. The result, especially in pieces with stations of gems separated by lengths of chain, is a subtle glamour that corresponds to today’s toned-down look of luxury.

Doublets. The doublet, once used by charlatans to imitate large gemstones, is making a sensational – and fully disclosed – comeback. Doublets occur primarily in the form of clear quartz or crystal fused to a thin sub-layer of mineral such as lapis, turquoise or coral. The color glows through the crystal that is fused on top of it.

Stations. The trend toward beads in irregular shapes, including beaded gems and pearls, set between lengths of chain is still strong. New variations include larger chain links and double strands between stations as well as larger gems or clusters of gems between chain lengths.

Enamel. Color accents are important at a time when subdued, classical dressing in neutral colors is making a comeback. Italian jewellers are masters of the enameling process, which adds a color kick.

Silver. Silver is prominently used in new collections which, because it has such a shiny surface, is being finished in new ways. Most notable is a scratched surface achieved with a tool called a buren. Rhodium-plating to prevent tarnishing is also popular.

Amethyst and quartz. Regal, accessible amethyst is everywhere, as are other quartz variety gems such as citrine, rose quartz, smoking quartz and lemon quartz, in various shades, from very light to medium saturation.

Luxe for less. Everyone is price-conscious these days, so designers are substituting less precious materials. The use of wood, including ebony, to replace metal or onyx; grey, ice, brown and black diamonds instead of white diamonds; pink tourmaline instead of pink sapphire; quartz or quartz doublets instead of highly-saturated gems; and even a resin coating over metal beads that resembles the lustre of a pearl surface or of satin-finished gold beads.

Ice diamonds and off-color diamonds. Off-colored diamonds – everything but white, including black, brown, yellow and all shades in between are substituting for pricey colorless stones. Heavily included or cloudy diamonds, sometimes called “ice” diamonds are also a trend.